Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to respond and learn their name in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to sit on command in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to come to you in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Melanie McLeroy co-owns the award winning Taurus Training dog training facility in Austin, Texas. Originally from Keller, Texas

Most people try to put the crate in the corner or out of eye sight due to its size or its ability to match the furniture. When crate training, the crate should be placed in the most centralize and highest traffic areas of the home. This will allow you to continue to interact with your Lab and not have it feel isolated or alone.

Preparing the Crate

Setting the crate up for your Lab is as important has the crate you choose. The pup should be as comfortable and has safe as possible while it is hanging out in its new den. Toys, treats, and bedding may be included but either needs to be checked for choking hazards. Since they are Labs and they are prone to chewing, toys and treats should be specifically for heavy chewers. Depending on your Labrador Retriever, the bedding may range from old towels to a $200 bed from an high end store. Please check all items for their “chew factor” before leaving your pup alone in a crate with them. We have learned a number of times that even those beds that look like they are tough, have no chance of survival when placed in a closed space with an aggressive chewer.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

The introduction of puppy and crate is the most crucial step on the training process. First perceptions are always the strongest with both humans and animals. Per the American Dog Trainers Network, the following steps should be taken during this introduction period:

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Feeding Your Lab Meals in the Crate

Each owner has a preference on feeding in a crate. For those that must leave their Lab pups in the crate for longer periods of time, this may be an option. However, most families choose not to feed in the crate because it can become messy, it is difficult to keep the Labrador Retriever on a feeding schedule, or the owner may be training the dog using the “Nothing in Life is Free” principle. Feeding meals in the crate is based upon personal preferences.

A Note About Crating Puppies

If you are crate training a young puppy, please remember that they have limited control over eliminating. The younger the pup, the more frequently it will need to go to the bathroom. The age of the puppy denotes the amount of time they are able to crated. Puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated as they will need to go to the bathroom frequently. No pup should ever be allowed to eliminate in their crate. This defeats one of the more predominate uses of crate training and confuses the Lab. For most, the age and crating duration is as follows:

• 9-10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
• 11-14 weeks: 1-3 hours
• 15-16 weeks: 3-4 hours
• 17+ weeks: 4+ hours

Accidents in the Crate

Accidents will happen and if this happens in the crate, the Lab should never be scolded. If a mess occurs, promptly bring the pup outside to finish eliminating and return to clean the mess. Everything in the crate should be cleaned as microscopic particles of urine or feces can be on anything. Any residue or odor left behind will leave a scent or marking for your pup to use next time it needs to eliminate. Therefore, all bedding and the crate floor should be washed with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle).

Crating Guidelines & Potential Problems

• Collars are to be removed as they can get caught on the crate and pose a choking hazard.
• Do not crate during extremely hot temperatures.
• Make sure your Lab eliminates before entering the crate and as soon as it is released from the crate.
• If your pup continues to eliminate in the crate, check that it does not have too much room – otherwise seek veterinarian assistance.
• Never use the crate as a form of punishment.
• Children should never play in or around the crate. This is a sanctuary for you dog and therefore it should be able to have this space to itself.
• Never release a barking Lab from the crate. If you do so, the pup will be conditioned to believe that barking gets the end result it wants – to be let out of the crate. The pup should not bark and remain calm for at least 5 minutes before opening the crate door. If it is a younger pup and it is barking because it needs to eliminate, promptly open the crate door and lead the pup out on a leash to eliminate. After done, return the Lab directly to the crate. this will reinforce that barking is not appropriate in the crate unless it is for elimination only. Sure, the barking can cause you to get less sleep or become annoying but it will get better with time if you are consistent.
• Do not use the crate if your Lab is vomiting or has diarrhea.
• Do not use the crate for extended periods of time. You chose to have a dog and must take responsibility for providing social interaction, nurturing, support, exercise, and love.
• Don’t abuse the crate!

The crate doesn’t work for all dogs. Some dogs will not tolerate it but most will come to love the crate and be lost without it. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for “senior” dogs. We have been very successful in crate training and need only remove our Labs’ collars and say “Kennel Up”, and they head straight for their crates. It is important that the crate not be abused. Every dog needs a certain amount of exercise and should be allowed the opportunity to socialize daily with its human family.

Original source: Lab articles

So now that you know what housebreaking is and the importance of scheduling, how do you get the pup to go outside? It is a simple process of awarding the pup for good behavior.

Most Lab owners follow a very simple routine when they take their pup outside: take the pup out on a leash directly to the spot you want it to eliminate, use a command to tell the pup to do its business such as Go Potty, do not play with the pup while outside for bathroom time, as the pup goes potty repeat the command over (this helps train the pup to go on command), treat and praise when the pup goes potty, do not return the pup to the house until 10 minutes have passed even if it has already eliminated (it may go potty again), and praise the pup when it comes back into the house.

Beyond the 2-hour schedule, pups will need to go to the bathroom:

• When they wake up in the morning or after a nap
• Before they go to sleep
• After they play
• Before and after they go on a car ride
• When they get overly excited

If you are crate training your Labrador Retriever, you will want to make sure to keep the crate small enough for the pup to only be able to turn and sleep in. Extra room in the crate allows the pup an area to eliminate as they will not go to the bathroom where they sleep. Take the pup out to go potty before you crate your pup and after you let it out of the crate. If the pup cries while in the crate and you believe it needs to go to the bathroom, open the door, put the leash on it immediately, and take it outside right away. Do not praise or play with your pup when taking it out of the crate or it will link crying and barking to getting released from the crate and this will make it more difficult to crate train. When the pup is done eliminating outside, bring it right back to the crate. This teaches the pup that crying or barking will not get any play time, love, praise, or cuddling and will just result in allowing it to go outside to do its business.

Housebreaking is not always an easy task but it doesn’t have to result in frustration and hair loss. With Labrador Retrievers, owners need to remain consistent and persistent in their training. Most owners become frustrated because they try something for a week or two and when it doesn’t work, they either give up or try something new. Unfortunately, this ends up confusing the Lab and the pup will be deemed un-trainable. When training fails, it is usually that the owner does not remain consistent with the training or gives up all together. This leads to an 80-pound dog that rules the roost and a very important bond between owner and Lab that is lost.

Those owners, such as me, that continue to remain persistent and consistent in training, can tell you that it is well worth the energy. My 2-year old Lab, Dakota, was housebroken by the time she was 12-weeks old. However, Cheyenne, my 1-year old full-blood sister to Dakota, was not fully housebroken until almost 6-months old. Why the difference? Although they both share the same genetic make up, they are two separate Labs with two distinct, and opposite, personalities. The point is that each Labrador Retriever is distinctly different however, as long as you remain consistent and persistent in their training, even those, like Cheyenne, who are not as easily trainable as other Labs can be training. Your Lab would never give up on you so never give up on your Lab!

Original source: Labrador Articles

In the summer we worry about keeping our pets cool, come winter and it’s time to think about keeping them warm and dry. Here are some simple ways you can protect your pets this winter.

The easiest, safest way to keep your pets warm is to keep them indoors, especially overnight. Older dogs, puppies, and dogs with certain diseases such as diabetes, heart and kidney problems should never be kept outside. All cats should remain indoors.

Some dogs tolerate cold weather better than others. Some dogs can take cold better than others, such as Alaskan Malamutes and Huskies. Short -haired and toy dogs will have a particularly hard time in the cold.

Snow and ice can pose problems for dogs. Snow can get packed between dog’s toes and freeze, causing pain and discomfort. To avoid this problem, keep the hair between the toes cut short.

Keeping nails cut short also helps. Shorter nails allow for better traction. If a dog is slipping on ice it tends to splay the toes, which causes more snow to pack between them.

If you are walking your dog on sidewalks or streets that have been salted to melt ice, be sure to wash his paws when you return. The salt can be drying and irritating to the paws.

If a dog must be kept outside during the day, be sure to provide proper shelter. An oversized dog house or shed will not retain enough heat. The house should be just large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around.

Do not use blankets for bedding. These will just get wet and freeze. Clean straw or hay is preferable.

Position the house on the south or east side of the house if possible, out of the wind. Raising it up off the ground helps, too.

Remember that the dog’s water may freeze if left outside. Putting the water in a deep container helps keep it from freezing. Also plastic is a better choice in this case, as metal conducts the cold quicker. Dark colored dishes will absorb more heat than lighter ones, slowing the freezing action. Be sure to break up any ice on the surface of the water each morning.

Are you aware of the dangers of antifreeze? Ethylene glycol based antifreeze is deadly to cats and dogs! Be sure to keep containers tightly capped and out of reach. Wipe up any spills immediately. For the safest bet, use one of the alternative products made with propylene glycol instead.

Outdoor cats will look for warm spots to curl up. Some cats have learned that cars and trucks offer nice warm nooks. They will crawl up into the wheel-wells or engine compartments. Banging on the hood before you get in your car is a good idea in case you have a stowaway.

Indoors, pets will often curl up next to heaters or under wood stoves. Watch out for tails and fur getting too close to heating elements! Make sure your cat does not overheat.

Some extra vigilance may be needed if you will have a Christmas tree. Anchoring the tree to the wall is a good precaution. Tinsel can be dangerous to pets if ingested, so either don’t use it, or place it well out of reach of cats and dogs. Start hanging decorations a few feet from the bottom of the tree.

If you have a puppy, don’t leave gifts unattended under the tree. Don’t use string or dangling ribbons on packages if you have a cat. Cover the base of the tree to keep animals from drinking the water.

There is debate over the toxicity of Poinsettias. Even if they are not deadly, the sap is an irritant and will probably make the animal sick. Holly and mistletoe berries are poisonous; so keep them out of reach of pets.

Elyse is the founder of The Original Dog Biscuit Company. She has extended knowledge of pet nutrition and feeding, as well as practical experience in the raising of cats, dogs and other animals. She is a herbalist, specializing in animals. Read more of her articles at: http://www.pethealthresource.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elyse_Grau

A pup with proper identification allows people to easily contact you when separated from your dog. It also helps you to prove ownership over your furry friend, should you ever have to prove ownership rights to a shelter or human society. For this reason, a number of identification methods are available.

Forms of Identification

• Microchip – a tiny computer chip which has an identification number programmed into it. The chip is encased in a smooth, strong biocompatible glass, and is small enough to fit into a hypodermic needle. Once an animal is injected with the chip, he can be identified throughout his life by this one-of-a-kind number. His identification cannot be lost, altered or intentionally removed. Popular microchip include: AVID and HomeAgain.




• Dog Tags – a small charm that is attached to a dog’s collar. This charm can come in many different shapes, sizes, colors, and materials. It includes information such as the dog’s name, address, and phone number. This type of identification can be easily lost or not used if the Lab does not wear a collar often.




• Tattoo – offers a permanent and visible means of identifying your pet to others. The tattoo is applied within seconds, and requires no anesthetic or sedation. The tattoo is easily traced to the owner, and is proven to deter theft.

Each dog owner has a preference and may even choose to do all options in order to offer as much support for the dog and family during separation. It is important though that whichever method is chosen, that the family make sure that the information given to either the tattoo or microchip registry, as well as the dog tags themselves, are updates regularly with any change in information such as an address or phone number change. If the information isn’t updated, the identification is not as effective in getting you long lost pup home.

As with anything else, any of these options could be harmful if care is not taken. Dog collars can get caught on items and choke the pup. The microchip can be implanted by someone who is not a professional and can cause medical problems such as infections. As with microchipping, dog tattooing should also be done by a professional as all items should be sterilized and the facility must handle your pup with the best of care.

Whatever you choose to do, please make sure your Labrador Retriever is able to be properly identified as soon as it comes home with you. Labs are full of energy and can easily escape or wander. Unfortunately, they also make great guinea pigs in laboratory experiments and we have personally heard stories of Labs being snatched up from their own front yard in a split second just to be sold to a laboratory. You Labrador Retriever is counting on you to make sure it stays safe. Don’t let it down!

Reference: http://www.8pawsup.com/articles/life/dogid.html

• Labrador Retriever (137,867)
• Golden Retriever (48,509)
• Yorkshire Terrier (47,238)
• German Shepherd Dog (45,014)
• Beagle (42,592)
• Dachshund (38,566)
• Boxer (37,268)
• Poodle (31,638)
• Shih Tzu (28,087)
• Miniature Schnauzer (24,144)

Compare this list with the top ten dogs from the United Kingdom’s list:

• Labrador Retriever
• English Cocker Spaniel
• English Springer Spaniel
• German Shepherd Dog
• Staffordshire Bull Terrier
• Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
• Golden Retriever
• West Highland Terrier
• Boxer
• Border Terrier

Interesting that there are several dog breeds in the U.K. top ten list that are not near the top ten in the United States.

In the United States the Labrador Retriever has been in the number one position for 16 years in a row. Meanwhile the Chihuahua slipped from 10th place to number 11th, replaced by the Miniature Schnauzer.

It’s not surprising that the two most popular dog breeds in the United States and Canada are the Labrador Retriever and the Golden Retriever. Both are such wonderful dogs to own with their easy-going nature and high intelligence.

These two dog breeds, along with the German Shepherd Dog, made the top ten dog list in the U.S., Canada, and the U.K. The Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever make great dogs for families and are listed in a top ten list of dogs for children.

In the same list of “child-friendly dogs” are the Beagle, Poodle, French Bulldog, Pug, Cairn Terrier, Old English Sheepdog, King Charles Spaniel and Cocker Spaniel, several of which made the AKC top ten dog list.

Looking at the United States AKC top ten dog list the Yorkshire Terrier has moved up to third place, it’s highest point since it became recognized by the AKC in 1885. With their spirited, loving yet willful personality, they deserve to be among the top ten popular dog breeds. Their only drawback is the daily grooming required, but that’s little inconvenience compared to the love they give.

While the Labrador Retriever has been number one since 1991, the breed that held the number one position the longest is the Cocker Spaniel, from 1936 to 1952 and again from 1983 to 1990 for a total of 23 years. Watch for the Labrador Retriever to beat that record.

The Poodle comes in a very close second for the number of years as America’s favorite breed; 1960 to 1982, a total of 22 years. It was in 1972 that the large breeds took over as America’s favorites when the Doberman Pinschers, Rottweilers and Chow Chows rose in popularity throughout the 1980s and 1990s.

By comparison, small dogs held anywhere from one to four slots in the top ten at that time. However, as we entered into the new millennium small dogs have increased in popularity among Americans, perhaps due to their portability or perhaps because celebrities are making these smaller breeds more visible.

Notice all the small dogs that are in the list of the 11-20 most popular:

• Chihuahua (23,575)
• Pug (22,064)
• Bulldog (20,556)
• Pomeranian (19,511)
• Cocker Spaniel (16,343)
• Rottweiler (15,916)
• Boston Terrier (15,852)
• Shetland Sheepdog (14,278)
• Maltese (13,676)
• German Shorthaired Pointer (13,273)

Four of these dogs are from the AKCs Toy group and another, the Boston Terrier, is a small dog from the Terrier group. Add the five small dogs from the top ten list and that’s why the new millennium seems to belong to the small dog.

Whatever your favorite breed, we can all agree that dogs continue to hold a very special place in the hearts of millions of Americans, and this is a bond that needs no special breed at all.

Copyright 2006 Carol Stack

Carol Stack has been working with dogs for over three decades. She and her daughter Christy have put up a web site to help others discover how to choose, care for and train their dogs: http://www.christysdogportal.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Stack

Origin:

The origins of the Labrador are rather obscure but two types of dog were known in Newfoundland – a large heavy dog used to pull boats into land and a lighter, smoother coated variety used by fisherman to retrieve game and fish. They were both known as Newfoundland dogs and it was not until 1812 that the larger breed was known as Newfoundlands, and the smaller as the lesser Newfoundland or Labrador. In 1814 Labradors were taken to England where, in a book ‘Instructions to Young Sportsmen’, the breed was described as ‘by far the best for every kind of shooting’.

Personality:

An adaptable and devoted companion with a kindly nature, Labradors easily adopt the role of children’s playmate or elderly persons pet. The keenness to learn and willingness to please make the Labrador an ideal choice as a guide dog for the blind. The puppies are placed with a family for the first 12 months of their life and then return to the Guide Dog School for an intensive training course. After graduation the dog is matched with a compatible owner and devotes itself to the safety of its owner.

Trainability:

The excellent sense of smell possessed by Labradors, coupled with their eagerness and agility, makes them suitable as bomb detection or drug sniffer dogs. These dogs are trained to detect certain substances and, by their behaviour, alert their handlers. To the dog it is all one big game of ‘hide and seek’, although in the case of bomb detection dogs they save many lives.

Physical characteristics:

The tail is very thick at the base, of medium length and gradually tapering to the tip, densely coated with short, thick hair giving a characteristic ‘otter’ tail. The head is broad with medium sized brown eyes expressing intelligence and good temper and ears hanging close to the head.

Colours:

Although the Labrador is commonly referred to as the ‘golden’ Labrador, the colour is officially called ‘yellow’ and ranges from light cream through to a red fox shade. Other permissible colours are black, liver or chocolate.

60Coat:

The coat is a distinctive feature – short, dense without wave or feathering and with a fairly hard feel and a weather resistant undercoat.

Height:

A strongly built dog with a broad and deep chest, the normal height is 56 – 57 cm for males, and 54 – 56 cm for females.

Lifespan:

12 – 14 years

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Johnston