Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to respond and learn their name in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to come to you in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to sit on command in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to come to you in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Any health care links and information in this article should NOT to replace a veterinarian visit or advice; please take your Lab to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior, such as aggression, or any symptoms of illness or injury.

Once seen as cruel and inhumane, crate training is starting to gain popularity. The crate can be a useful tool when training a new puppy or adult dog. If used correctly, the crate cane be a place of sanctuary an security when needed. Not all Labs will respond to the crate in the same way. Some use them willingly, while others detest them and will do everything they can to avoid or break free from the crate – even at the risk of injuring themselves. Usually, the latter have problems with the crate due to negative past experiences, such as being left in a small confined space for long periods of time or having the crate used as a punishment. Care must be taken to encourage your Lab to view the crate as its den, retreat, or sanctuary. This is why it is important to understand the proper use of crate training for both puppies and adult Labs. The more knowledgeable you are with this device, the more likely that your Lab will love its crate!

Advantages of Using Crate Training

Through the use of crate training:

• You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe, and not developing bad habits.
• You can housebreak your pet more quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their den.
• You can travel with your pet without risk of the the dog getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving.
• Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of den of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.
• Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behavior.
• Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar “security blanket” along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.

Purchasing a Crate

Many people will automatically buy a plastic crate when they first bring home their Lab. Although this may work for some pups, others may not like it because it is too confining and they feel cut off from the rest of the family when in it. Those with heavy chewers will also want to stay clear of plastic crates as many Labs have been known to chew their way out or ingest the plastic. Plastic crates are best when used during traveling or for short periods of time.

The most recommended crate is a wire crate with a removable plastic or metal floor. This is perfect for both puppy and adult dogs since it is less destructible and easier to clean. Also, the wire crates allow for more air flow as well as unobstructed view of the world around the Lab. If you are purchasing it for a small puppy, then you will want to keep in mind that your Lab pup will not always be that small. Take into consideration the adult size of your dog when purchasing your crate. Personally, we have used, and continue to use the Midwest LifeStages large wire crate. This crate not only has a plastic floor that slides out for easy cleaning, but also comes with a wire divider for the crate. Why is this important? Well, the more room you give a pup, the greater the chance that it will go potty in the crate. Pups never want to soil where they sleep and therefore the crate should only be big enough for the pup to stand up and turn around. The divider will allow you to make the large crate as small as you need and increase the amount of space your Lab gets as it gets older and bigger. Lastly, the crate is collapsible (folds up) for easy transport. One crate – one cost!

Cost of a Crate

The cost of a crate can range from $40 – $200+ depending on the type and size of the crate. It is recommended that the largest crate needed be purchased and then sections of it blocked off during training in order to alleviate the cost of purchasing more than one as the pup gets bigger.

Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate can be a lot higher than $200 and may include:

• Sofas
• Chairs
• Rugs
• Walls
• Shoes
• Computer Components
• Jewelry
• Books
• Remote Controls
• Vet Bills – to remove any foreign object it may ingest

• Your Lab’s Life – if it chews on any electric components, hazardous materials, or chokes on anything else it may be able to get in its mouth

Crate Training Your Labrador Dog Continue part 2

Original source: Lab articles

Most people try to put the crate in the corner or out of eye sight due to its size or its ability to match the furniture. When crate training, the crate should be placed in the most centralize and highest traffic areas of the home. This will allow you to continue to interact with your Lab and not have it feel isolated or alone.

Preparing the Crate

Setting the crate up for your Lab is as important has the crate you choose. The pup should be as comfortable and has safe as possible while it is hanging out in its new den. Toys, treats, and bedding may be included but either needs to be checked for choking hazards. Since they are Labs and they are prone to chewing, toys and treats should be specifically for heavy chewers. Depending on your Labrador Retriever, the bedding may range from old towels to a $200 bed from an high end store. Please check all items for their “chew factor” before leaving your pup alone in a crate with them. We have learned a number of times that even those beds that look like they are tough, have no chance of survival when placed in a closed space with an aggressive chewer.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

The introduction of puppy and crate is the most crucial step on the training process. First perceptions are always the strongest with both humans and animals. Per the American Dog Trainers Network, the following steps should be taken during this introduction period:

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Feeding Your Lab Meals in the Crate

Each owner has a preference on feeding in a crate. For those that must leave their Lab pups in the crate for longer periods of time, this may be an option. However, most families choose not to feed in the crate because it can become messy, it is difficult to keep the Labrador Retriever on a feeding schedule, or the owner may be training the dog using the “Nothing in Life is Free” principle. Feeding meals in the crate is based upon personal preferences.

A Note About Crating Puppies

If you are crate training a young puppy, please remember that they have limited control over eliminating. The younger the pup, the more frequently it will need to go to the bathroom. The age of the puppy denotes the amount of time they are able to crated. Puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated as they will need to go to the bathroom frequently. No pup should ever be allowed to eliminate in their crate. This defeats one of the more predominate uses of crate training and confuses the Lab. For most, the age and crating duration is as follows:

• 9-10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
• 11-14 weeks: 1-3 hours
• 15-16 weeks: 3-4 hours
• 17+ weeks: 4+ hours

Accidents in the Crate

Accidents will happen and if this happens in the crate, the Lab should never be scolded. If a mess occurs, promptly bring the pup outside to finish eliminating and return to clean the mess. Everything in the crate should be cleaned as microscopic particles of urine or feces can be on anything. Any residue or odor left behind will leave a scent or marking for your pup to use next time it needs to eliminate. Therefore, all bedding and the crate floor should be washed with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle).

Crating Guidelines & Potential Problems

• Collars are to be removed as they can get caught on the crate and pose a choking hazard.
• Do not crate during extremely hot temperatures.
• Make sure your Lab eliminates before entering the crate and as soon as it is released from the crate.
• If your pup continues to eliminate in the crate, check that it does not have too much room – otherwise seek veterinarian assistance.
• Never use the crate as a form of punishment.
• Children should never play in or around the crate. This is a sanctuary for you dog and therefore it should be able to have this space to itself.
• Never release a barking Lab from the crate. If you do so, the pup will be conditioned to believe that barking gets the end result it wants – to be let out of the crate. The pup should not bark and remain calm for at least 5 minutes before opening the crate door. If it is a younger pup and it is barking because it needs to eliminate, promptly open the crate door and lead the pup out on a leash to eliminate. After done, return the Lab directly to the crate. this will reinforce that barking is not appropriate in the crate unless it is for elimination only. Sure, the barking can cause you to get less sleep or become annoying but it will get better with time if you are consistent.
• Do not use the crate if your Lab is vomiting or has diarrhea.
• Do not use the crate for extended periods of time. You chose to have a dog and must take responsibility for providing social interaction, nurturing, support, exercise, and love.
• Don’t abuse the crate!

The crate doesn’t work for all dogs. Some dogs will not tolerate it but most will come to love the crate and be lost without it. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for “senior” dogs. We have been very successful in crate training and need only remove our Labs’ collars and say “Kennel Up”, and they head straight for their crates. It is important that the crate not be abused. Every dog needs a certain amount of exercise and should be allowed the opportunity to socialize daily with its human family.

Original source: Lab articles

With the dog days of summer here it’s important to help keep our Labs cool and protected. We have compiled a list of some things every Labrador Retriever owner needs to keep in mind and some helpful ideas to keep your dogs cool.

On hot days, shade is of the upmost importance. If your Lab will be outside for even a short period of time, make sure it has a cool and shady place to rest and lots of water in a spill-proof water bowl. Please keep in mind that as the day progresses, the these areas may lose their shade and become hot and sunny.

Keep your Labs well-groomed in summer. Brush your pup daily to make sure all lose fur and heavy undercoats have been removed. This will help the Lab stay cool and will reduce the amount of heat trapped in the layers of fur.

A child’s plastic wading pool is one of the best ideas for Labs. Being water dogs, they will automatically be drawn to the cool water and even if they only let their paws get wet, it will help the Lab cool down greatly. Some dogs have even been known to lay in the pool and bathe in the cool water. Since the dogs will tend to drink their pool water, please make sure you change the water at least once a day, if not more frequently.

Dog walks should take place in the early morning hours or later in the evening, when the sun has started to set. The surface temperature of sidewalks and streets can burn your Lab’s paws in a very short time of walking. They may not give you any signs to their discomfort but know that it is not comfortable for them to walk on these scolding surfaces. If you cannot place your hand on the surface for a period of time without it being too hot for you, it is most likely too hot for your Lab.

If your Lab is going to be out in the sun for a longer period of time, use a sunscreen made especially for dogs! This is most needed for Dudley Labs as their noses are more sensitive and their fur is lighter. If your lab has a light coat or light nose, apply the sunscreen to its nose and ears about 30 minutes before going out. You will want to stick with a dog sunscreen as it can withstand a Lab licking its nose.

For those families that live in the warmer climates, have a Lab that isn’t used to heat, or have an unseasonably hot day, please take extra precautions. If have air conditioning and your Lab does not need to be outside, then please keep it inside when it is hot. Heat stroke is a real danger to dogs as they can easily become dehydrated and overheated.

Signs of Heatstroke

• Rapid, heavy panting
• Staring
• Warm, dry skin
• Excessive salivating
• Inability to stand, collapse
• Vomiting

If you think your Lab is suffering with heatstroke, here is what you can do. First, have someone call the vet or the emergency vet, while you try to cool your Lab. You can cool your Lab, by placing cool towels on its body. The towels must be cool, but not ice cold. Drastic temperature changes are not good for your Lab either. Remember to keep wetting the towels because they will quickly warm to your Lab’s body temperature. If wet towels are not available, put cool water on the back of your Lab’s neck and on its belly. While cooling your Lab, offer it fresh water as well.

The main thing to remember in the summer is to take cues from your Lab. If you keep a close eye on your Lab during those hot, humid months you and your Lab will enjoy a great summer. Just remember that a well-informed Labrador Retriever owner makes for a happy and healthy Lab.

Like their human owners, dogs and cats sometimes wake up with “sleepers” in their eyes — a crusty discharge that results from the eye’s natural self-cleaning efforts. All pets will occasionally have some discharge, although bulgy-eyed breeds such as pugs, Pekingese, and Persian cats are much more prone to it than others.

“If you can wipe away the sleepers in the morning with a damp tissue and they don’t accumulate to any extent during the day, then you generally don’t have to worry about it,” says Nancy Willerton, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Denver. “But when the discharge continues throughout the day, your pet may have an infection.”

Eye infections are fairly common, Dr. Willerton adds. They can crop up on their own or when something lodges in the eye. They can also occur when the surface of the eye, called the cornea, gets scratched. A telltale sign of infection is the appearance of the discharge: It will often be thick, yellow, gray, or green. It may form a crust on the eyelids as well.

Pets with viral infections such as feline respiratory disease in cats and canine adenovirus in dogs will often develop runny eyes. “It may start out as a watery discharge but then become thicker as the infection progresses,” says Terri McGinnis, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in the San Francisco area and author of The Well Cat Book and The Well Dog Book.

“Dogs and cats are prone to seasonal allergies, and the only sign may be a sticky eye discharge,” adds Craig N. Carter, D.V.M., Ph.D., head of epidemiology at Texas Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory at Texas A&M University in College Station. Unlike bacterial or viral infections, allergies usually result in a clear discharge, he adds. Your pet may be scratching himself and have bloodshot eyes as well.

A problem in older pets is that the eyes naturally become drier. This makes it easy for the outer portion of the eye to get irritated and inflamed, which can result in a sticky, yellow discharge on the surface of the eyeball.

Finally, some pets have a slight genetic defect called entropion, in which the eyelid turns inward and causes the lashes to brush against the surface of the eye. In cats and some breeds of dogs, like golden and Labrador retrievers, entropion often affects the lower eyelid. In dogs with big heads and loose facial skin, such as Saint Bernards, shar-peis, and Chow Chows, both lids can be affected. Over time entropion can cause irritation and infection, resulting in a discharge.

See Your Vet If…

• Your pet has an eye infection
  
• You have a bulgy-eyed breed like a Persian cat or Pekingese dog, or a giant breed of dog like a mastiff
  
• Your pet is scratching a lot and has bloodshot eyes
  
• Your pet won’t quit scratching or pawing his eyes
  
• His eyes have turned blue, gray, or cloudy, or he is having trouble getting around
  
• His eyes are frequently bloodshot or dry
  
• There has been a watery or discolored discharge from the eyes for 48 hours or more
  
• Your pet’s eyes are bulging
  
• The eyelids are swollen or unable to close
  
• There is a growth on the eye or eyelid
  
• One or both pupils are dilated, or they don’t respond to light
  
• Your pet seems very sensitive to light
  
• The eyes are droopy or sunken
  
• The third eyelids are covering the lower parts of the eyes
  
• His eyes are continually moving back and forth
  
• Blood or tiny blood vessels are visible in the center (not the whites) of his eyes
  
• His eyelid appears to be turned inward or outward

Original source ot this article: Labrador Retriever

By Shannon K. Steffen

About the Disease

Osteochondritis dessicans (OCD) is a hereditary disease that occurs early in the development of most large and giant breed dogs. The condition is noted by cracks and flaps in the articular cartilage. The symptoms of OCD can include, but are not limited to:

* Girl and her Black LabInflammation
* Joint instability
* Pain
* Lameness
* Degenerative joint disease
* Barely noticeable to severe limp
* Unable to bear weight on the leg
* Lameness worsens after periods of exercise
* Improves after rest
* Shortened forelimb stride (front shoulder)
* Crepitus (grating noise of bones rubbing against each other)
* Decreased range of motion

Symptoms usually develop between 4 to 10 months of age and may develop in several joints.

Statistics

More than 10% of dogs develop OCD in one of more joints. It is most seen in large and giant breeds such as:

* Great Dane
* Labrador Retriever
* Newfoundland
* Rottweiler
* Bernese Mountain Dog
* English Setter
* Old English Sheepdog
* Golden Retriever
* German Shepherd

OCD of the shoulder occurs twice as often in male dogs than in female dogs. OCD of the hock occurs more often in female dogs.

Causes

Genes may play an important part in the cause of OCD but the jury is still out on this. Nutrition is the most widely found risk factor as a diet high in calcium increases the risk of OCD. Rapid weight gain due to high-calorie diets causes unnecessary weight on the Lab’s joints and may also contribute to the disease.

As Lab owners, we are all told not to have our Lab puppy run or walk on hard surfaces for long periods of time as this may cause trauma or injury to the puppy’s joints. Excessive workload, exercise, and rough play can cause the cartilage to separate from the bone and add further lesions on the cartilage. Period of rapid growth can also play a huge part in the occurrence of this disease. Lastly, restricted blood flow to the cartilage from an separate underlying disease may cause OCD as a secondary culprit.

Diagnosis

There are a number of ways a veterinarian can tell if your Lab has OCD. Some methods include:

* History
* Physical examination
* X-rays (radiographs)
* Positive contrast arthroscopy
* Crepitus (crackling noise of bones rubbing against each other)
* Noticeable Pain
* Restricted mobility or extension
* Swelling

These methods help the vet correctly diagnose the OCD and rule out several other conditions such as cartilage fractures, elbow dysplasia, panosteitis.

Treatment

The goal of treatment is to alleviate pain, increase mobility, and prevent further damage to your Lab’s leg. Once the disease is confirmed, the following factors will be taken into account when considering treatment options:

* Age
* Health
* Cost
* Severity of symptoms

Conservative treatment is less expensive and requires less rigorous owner compliance than surgery. This treatment includes rest, confinement for 4 to 8 weeks, and weight control and is recommended when the symptoms are mild and the x-rays do not show lesions. During this time, the Lab may be placed on nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as Carprofen (Rimadyl), to reduce the pain and inflammation.Yellow Lab Puppy

A low fat, protein, and calcium content diet will be required. In addition, the use of glucosamine/chondroitin products may be suggested. These supplements help build new cartilage, and block sulfates that break it down.

For the more severe cases, where large lesions are identified or conservative methods do not work, surgery may be and option. There is a high success rate for surgery and most Labs will recover without any further problems. Of course, that does not take into account those Labs that are prone to chew through bandages, open stitches, etc.

Prevention

There is no proven method to preventing a Labrador Retriever from getting osteochondritis dessicans. The only prevention consists of carefully selective breeding, reducing strenuous activity while growing, keeping the Lab on softer surfaces when walking or playing, and maintaining a good balanced diet and weight. Labrador Retriever puppies are pure energy wrapped in fur and keeping them well exercised while trying to prevent OCD is difficult. However, with a closely watchful eye and some creativeness, prevention may be possible.

Original source of this article: Labrador Articles

By Shannon K. Steffen

Finding out that your Labrador Retriever or large breed pup has Hip Dysplasia is one of the most devastating diagnoses that any dog owner hears. We are conditioned to think this is one of the worst large breed dog problems and that there is no hope for the pup after such a condition has been confirmed. Unfortunately, Canine Hip Dysplasia is not curable and can be quite painful if the Lab is not diagnosed early and necessary precautions made to increase the quality of life for the pup. That is why it is important to become knowledgeable in how to lessen the chance for such a diagnosis, how to know when your pup needs to be seen by a veterinarian, and what treatment options are available.

What is Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)?

Hip Dysplasia? simply means an abnormal formation of the hip joint. The head of the femur is supposed to match the socket of the joint. Those Labs that lack a snug fit between the ball and socket of the hip joint are those diagnosed with varying degrees of Hip Dysplasia. Some pups may only have a slight change, while others can have complete dislocation. Hence, no two dogs will be affected by the disorder exactly the same.

The Origin of Hip Dysplasia

Most studies have shown that the number one contributing factor to CHD is genetics. If the parents are carrying the genetic material for CHD, so will the offspring. Even if both parents are OFA Excellent, the opportunity for CHD is still available but less likely to occur.

There is also evidence to conclude that a number of environmental conditions can affect the expression of CHD and include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Nutrition Proper nutrition is crucial during the growth phase of a pup. This does not mean that food or calories should be restricted. Ideally, a high-quality meat-based diet is essential for growing pups and by using a large or giant breed puppy food will assist you in ensuring your growing Lab pup receives all the nutrients its needs while maintaining a proper caloric intake. An overweight puppy or dog adds much unnecessary stress on the hips and joints.
• Physical Activity Large and giant breed pups are in the growth phase of development from birth to 1 year of age. The more strenuous exercise it receives during this period, the greater chance of it developing Hip Dysplasia or arthritis later in life. Climbing stairs, jumping into and out of pick-up trucks, running with other normal dogs, all subject the growing hip structures to unwarranted stress and trauma and increase the future discomfort for the Lab.
• Bedding Although there is no evidence that bedding can increase the level of CHD in a pup, there is still the possibility. Smooth concrete, wood, or newspaper surfaces can become very slippery for a Lab and not allow them to get their footing. The lack of stability of the surface they are walking on can cause their legs to slide from underneath them and put further stress on the hips and joints.

Signs of Hip Dysplasia

Possible signs of CHD in young pups and older dogs can include the following:

• Runs with both back legs nearly together (rabbit run)
• Reluctant to rise after exercising
• Sits back unsteady
• Difficulty climbing stairs or inclines
• Look slightly undeveloped in the rear quarters
• Legs not parallel when standing straight
• Boniness to the pelvic area from lack of good muscle development
• Inability to extend the leg backward very far
• Decreased range of motion or stiffness
• Rock forward to support more weight on the front legs
• Tip-toeing lightly on rear legs
• Reluctant to jump or stand up on hind legs
• Sits rather than stand
• Decrease in willingness to exercise
• Popping or snapping sounds when walking
• Soreness after lying down
• Sensitivity to touch of the hindquarters
• Hind leg lameness
• Swaying or staggering
• Abnormal gait

It is very important to note that a Labrador Retriever may appear normal and yet have Hip Dysplasia. Some dogs with this disorder will escape pain or simply accept it as a fact of life and don’t complain until degenerative joint disease sets in.

Detecting Hip Dysplasia

Labs with obvious signs of CHD (hip soreness, difficulty arising or climbing inclines, muscle atrophy over the rump, limping) are not a challenge to confirm as such. This does not mean that a veterinarian can just look at a dog and determine them to have Hip Dysplasia. At a minimum, the Lab needs to have a pelvic x-ray taken under anesthesia. You must have the x-ray to know if the dog is normal or suffering from a separate disorder.

The reason anesthesia is necessary is that the veterinarian can only then palpate and manipulate the hips to actually feel the degree of looseness. Also, the tension of the muscles in the rump is best assessed under the anesthesia.

Treatment

Surgery is a viable option for dogs with severe CHD but it is not for every dog. Drug therapies are helpful to deal with pain. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin, naproxen, Adequan, and Cosequin have been proven effective in many cases. These anti-inflammatory drugs, accompanied with such treatments as weight loss and moderate exercise, will help to alleviate the pain and inflammation around the jip joint. This increases the quality of life for the Labrador Retriever pup and allows them to love normal? with some small restrictions. Some owners will even review acupuncture as an additional alternative prior to investing, emotionally and financially, to surgery.

The types of surgery available for CHD include:

1. Triple pelvic osteotomy a procedure to stabilize the joint and prevent degenerative changes that accompany weight-bearing stress on abnormal hips;
2. Femoral head excision used to prevent bone-on-bone friction; or
3. Total hip replacement.

The decision on the type of surgery preformed is based on the age of the Lab, the progress of the disease, and the general health of the dog.

Prevention of Hip Dysplasia

There are few things you can do in the way of prevention, but you should consider the following:

• When selecting a puppy, find out the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) hip score for the sire and dam. You should be looking to purchase offspring from parents whose hips have been evaluated and scored good or excellent. The PennHIP program for evaluating canine hips can provide excellent objective information about hip joints in dogs as young as four months of age.
• Picking up the problem as early as possible affords your pup the best chance of finding the right option, whether medical or surgical, to minimize the arthritic changes that will develop secondary to the Hip Dysplasia.

It is very sad indeed for any Lab owner to see their special pup affected by the discomfort and mobility problems associated with CHD. Fortunately, armed with knowledge and forethought, highly selective breeding is your best defense against CHD.

Original source of this artilce: Labrador Artilces