Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to respond and learn their name in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to come to you in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to sit on command in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Learn information, tips and techniques on how to teach your lab to come to you in this free video clip. Expert: Melanie McLeroy

Melanie McLeroy co-owns the award winning Taurus Training dog training facility in Austin, Texas. Originally from Keller, Texas

Melanie McLeroy co-owns the award winning Taurus Training dog training facility in Austin, Texas. Originally from Keller, Texas

By Shannon K. Steffen

Mouthing & Biting

Being a first-time Labrador Retriever owner brings with it not only responsibility but often battle scars. This particular dog breed was bred for using its mouth for hunting and retrieving game. Therefore, it is not uncommon to see a Lab have the natural instinct to put everything and anything in its mouth; including its owner’s hands, clothing, and most prized personal items. Unfortunately, most Lab owners will take this behavior and commonly label the dog as a “freak” to its breed. To do so is wrong. The Labrador Retriever is just doing what it was designed to do and it is the owner’s responsibility to teach it what is and is not acceptable behavior.

Biting or mouthing is common is young puppies. From the beginning, they use it as a form of play with their littermates. It is a social interaction between dogs that is healthy in the beginning. However, the mom of the litter has been known to swat down, growl at, or ignore such behavior when it becomes too much. This is a prime example of the “dog pack” method of letting the pup know when biting is allowed and when to just knock it off!

Since we are not dogs, there are other methods to training our pups to keep their piranha teeth off our bodies and personal items. First, we need to look at the types of biting associated with any dog breed. They are:

• Playful
• Fear Biting
• Territorial
• Aggression

Most puppies will not show aggression at a very early age. This is mostly a learned behavior over time. Hence, when small puppies bite, they bite out of fun, playfulness, teething, or the need to have something in their mouth. At first it may be cute, but it should be corrected immediately since it will not be as cute when they are a 70 lbs. adult Lab! Puppies should be taught from a young age never to mouth or bite humans. How do you do this? Well, based on our experience, there are a couple of steps to curb this type of behavior. When a puppy bites, first use a sharp tone and say “No Bite!” If the puppy continues to mouth or bite, grab the back of its collar with your other hand and give a quick/sharp tug and say “No Bite!” again. The tug action should only serve to startle the pup and not hurt it in any way. It may take 4-5 times in a row of performing the tug action while saying “No Bite!”, but the pup will understand quickly that when it bites you, it receives something it doesn’t like (the tug action).

It is important that after the pup stops biting, you replace the object of objection with something it should chew on. As soon as the pup bites down on this other object (toy, bone, etc), praise it using a very happy and higher pitch voice. This practice is considered positive training and instead of teaching the pup what not to do, you are replacing a negative action with a positive action. After a while, you will just have to say “No Bite!�? and the pup will automatically release upon command.

Teething

The teething stage is often seen with a great deal of chewing and destruction. We recommend using the method mentioned earlier but instead of a chew toy or bone, give your pup a Chilly Bone, a small towel that has been soaked in water and frozen, or an ice cube. Be sure to monitor your pup when chewing on any of these items as they can be a choking hazard for the more aggressive chewers. Ice cubes can be given regularly but give them slowly at the beginning and monitor your pup for any loose stools as this is a normal reaction for some Lab pups.

Other Type of Biting

Other types of biting including fear, territorial, and aggression biting. An owner may think that their puppy or dog was born with these negative behaviors but that is not true. Each of these negative behaviors is usually linked to a negative event that happened to the dog at an early age. Dogs that bite or threaten to bite out of fear and territorial influence can usually be trained out of such behaviors.

At 4 months of age, our own Lab, Dakota, was relaxing in the backyard with me. We both heard a noise from behind us and turned to see a 7-year old boy standing a couple of feet from us. Both of us jumped and both of us were not happy. Even though the boy had come over to see the puppy, he did so in a manner that scared Dakota so badly that she became fearful of any boy around that age. As soon as she sees one, the fur on her back will stand up and she will bark wildly. Is she aggressive? No, she is not. How do we know that? Simply because her tail is wagging wildly as well and she backs away from the boy. In order to combat this fear, we bring her to places with other people in varying ages and when we see a little boy, we ignore her behavior. We then tell the boy to talk to us for a minute while ignoring Dakota’s action. After a minute of us ignoring her, she slowly creeps towards the boy, sniffs him, and then starts to lick his hand. It is only at that point do we allow the boy to pet her. This has been going on for several months now and Dakota is almost perfect around little boys now. This never did turn into fear biting because we worked immediately to reprogram her fear and show her there was nothing to be afraid of. Had we not done so, it could have easily turned into fear biting.

Why include our own personal experience with such a negative behavior? Kindly, it is to illustrate that most negative behaviors can be corrected with persistent and consistent training. The same goes for territorial biting. The owner need only research what caused the behavior and slowly recondition the dog to understand that they have nothing to be territorial or fearful about. If you are unsure how to proceed with such training, please ask your veterinarian if they can recommend a dog behaviorist to assist you further.

Aggression

Lastly, dogs that bite or threaten to bite out of aggression have a serious problem that must be dealt with immediately. Most canine aggression problems start slowly and progressively get worse. Recognize the early signs of aggression and seek help immediately if see your dog do any of the following:

• Growling
• Snarling
• Biting

Contact a professional dog trainer right away for help if your dog bites you or a member of your family or acts of if it might. Be sure to not react by striking your Lab in any way, since this can increase the aggression.

Most biting and mouthing behaviors can be fixed with consistent and persistent training. With some common-sense strategies, a little bit of forethought, and a healthy dose of patience, any owner can help their Labrador Retriever become a well-mannered family companion.

Original source: Lab articels

The best Labrador Retriever is a well trained dog. Unfortunately, Labs usually don’t enter a family already fully trained. One of the most frequent training complaints is the ability for a Lab to drag its owner down the block in less than 20 seconds. It is for that reason that Lab owners seek out methods of controlling their dogs while on walks or during training session. One such method is the use of the Prong collar.

What is a Prong Collar?
A Prong collar (also called pinch collar) is a series of chain links with open ends turned towards the dog’s neck so that, when the collar is tightened, it pinches the naturally loose skin around the dog’s neck. When properly adjusted and used, it startles the dog and gives a sharp correction, but it is very difficult if not impossible to actually puncture the skin. And while it looks painful, it’s actually less harmful to the dog than a slip or choke collar. Opponents argue that pain is never a good default way in which to train animals. Some dogs are nearly oblivious to leash corrections of any kind, but the prong collar might make such dogs pay more attention than milder collar types. The advantage of the prong collar over the choke collar is that the circumference is limited so that it is impossible to compress the animal’s throat. Another advantage is that any pressure on the dog’s neck is spread out over a larger area than with most buckle collars, and with all choke chains.

Study of Prong Collars in Germany
(Information about study taken from an Anne Marie Silverton Seminar)

• 100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
• The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
• Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
• Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.

Type of Prong Collars

Swivel – prevents chain from getting twisted and owner must release dog by manually separating the links of the collar.

Quick Release – has a swivel to prevent chain from getting twisted and comes with a snap or special link to quickly release dog.

When should a Prong Collar be used?

A Prong collar should be used when milder training collars have not worked and your Lab is still not listening to commands. These other training collars include the flat collar, martingale collar, halter collar, or harness. Each of these training collars is less forceful and may be suitable for most owners and their Labs. For the most stubborn puller or for those Labs that have “selective hearing” when giving commands, the Prong collar can be very useful. Please use the mildest collar that gives you the results you want before trying a Prong collar.

Who should use a Prong Collar?

Any dog owner that has a stubborn Lab that need a more forceful training method. Only adults should use this type of training collar as there are some rules that a child may have difficultly following. Training must remain consistent and the alpha individual in the family should be the one to use this training method.

Please note: The pup should be at least 6 months in age before using a Prong collar for training due to development growth and age. This should not be used on young puppies.

Correct Use of a Prong Collar

Most people are misguided in the use of the Prong collar and how it should be worn. A majority of owners will secure the Prong collar loosely under the flat collar of the dog and believe this is the best fitting. Unfortunately, they are very wrong and can cause serious tracheal and neck problems for their Labs. Here are the facts:

• Prong collars are ordered by weight – Extra Heavy; Heavy; Light; etc. They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
• Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. They should never be left on the Lab all the time. That is what the flat collar is meant for.
• A snug fit is mandatory! Enough links need to be removed so that the collar fits snug.
• Positioning of the Prong collar is crucial. The collar should sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw. Not down at the shoulders.
• Rings on the Prong collar should be positioned ideally for training. For most, the rings (that you attach your leash to) should be towards the top right of the Lab’s neck as to allow the trainer to be standing to the Lab’s right for training.
• Links should always remain under the dog’s chin for more effective training.
• Attach the leash to the dead-ring for normal dog training. The dead-ring is when the trainer attaches the leash to both the swivel ring and the stationary ring. This will allow the Prong collar to remain the same size when training and provide less force.
• Attach leash to the live-ring for more stubborn dogs. The live ring is the swivel ring alone and allows the Prong collar to tighten further on the Lab when training. Do not use the live-ring method of training unless you have first tried the dead-ring method.
• The Prong collar should be placed on the Lab 20 minutes before training and it should be removed 20 minutes after the training has been completed. This will allow the Lab to become accustomed to the collar and not directly link the correction during the training with the collar.

Animal Cruelty

The Prong collar itself is not a cruel device to use on any dog, so long as it is used properly during training. As with anything, there are opportunities for any training method to be used in a cruel and inhumane fashion. Prong collars should never be used for punishment after the Lab has done something wrong. The collar should only be worn when the owner is actively training the Lab. If left on, the collar can hurt the Lab if it were to become tangled or caught on something. Prong collars are used solely for correction during training and should not be used in any other way. If you suspect someone of purposefully using the Prong collar to hurt their dog, please contact your local officials immediately.

Just because an owner chooses to use a Prong collar does not mean he or she has a bad dog. Both of our lovable Labs use the collar during their daily walks, as they tend to pull hard, and it is used during our more rigorous training sessions. When used properly, the Prong collar can make even the most energetic and stubborn Lab become well mannered and easy to handle.

If you are unsure as to what training collar may be best suited for your pup, please contact a local Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT), whic

Original source: Lab articles

Any health care links and information in this article should NOT to replace a veterinarian visit or advice; please take your Lab to a vet immediately at any sign of odd behavior, such as aggression, or any symptoms of illness or injury.

Once seen as cruel and inhumane, crate training is starting to gain popularity. The crate can be a useful tool when training a new puppy or adult dog. If used correctly, the crate cane be a place of sanctuary an security when needed. Not all Labs will respond to the crate in the same way. Some use them willingly, while others detest them and will do everything they can to avoid or break free from the crate – even at the risk of injuring themselves. Usually, the latter have problems with the crate due to negative past experiences, such as being left in a small confined space for long periods of time or having the crate used as a punishment. Care must be taken to encourage your Lab to view the crate as its den, retreat, or sanctuary. This is why it is important to understand the proper use of crate training for both puppies and adult Labs. The more knowledgeable you are with this device, the more likely that your Lab will love its crate!

Advantages of Using Crate Training

Through the use of crate training:

• You can enjoy peace of mind when leaving your dog alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and that he is comfortable, safe, and not developing bad habits.
• You can housebreak your pet more quickly by using the close confinement to motivate your pet to wait until taken outside, since canines naturally avoid soiling their den.
• You can travel with your pet without risk of the the dog getting loose and becoming lost or interfering with safe driving.
• Your dog can enjoy the security and privacy of den of his own to which he can retreat when tired or stressed.
• Your dog can avoid much of the fear and confusion caused by your reaction to problem behavior.
• Since he can more easily adapt to staying in unfamiliar places as long as he has his familiar “security blanket” along, your pet can be included in family outings, instead of being left behind alone.

Purchasing a Crate

Many people will automatically buy a plastic crate when they first bring home their Lab. Although this may work for some pups, others may not like it because it is too confining and they feel cut off from the rest of the family when in it. Those with heavy chewers will also want to stay clear of plastic crates as many Labs have been known to chew their way out or ingest the plastic. Plastic crates are best when used during traveling or for short periods of time.

The most recommended crate is a wire crate with a removable plastic or metal floor. This is perfect for both puppy and adult dogs since it is less destructible and easier to clean. Also, the wire crates allow for more air flow as well as unobstructed view of the world around the Lab. If you are purchasing it for a small puppy, then you will want to keep in mind that your Lab pup will not always be that small. Take into consideration the adult size of your dog when purchasing your crate. Personally, we have used, and continue to use the Midwest LifeStages large wire crate. This crate not only has a plastic floor that slides out for easy cleaning, but also comes with a wire divider for the crate. Why is this important? Well, the more room you give a pup, the greater the chance that it will go potty in the crate. Pups never want to soil where they sleep and therefore the crate should only be big enough for the pup to stand up and turn around. The divider will allow you to make the large crate as small as you need and increase the amount of space your Lab gets as it gets older and bigger. Lastly, the crate is collapsible (folds up) for easy transport. One crate – one cost!

Cost of a Crate

The cost of a crate can range from $40 – $200+ depending on the type and size of the crate. It is recommended that the largest crate needed be purchased and then sections of it blocked off during training in order to alleviate the cost of purchasing more than one as the pup gets bigger.

Cost of Not Buying a Crate

The cost of not using a crate can be a lot higher than $200 and may include:

• Sofas
• Chairs
• Rugs
• Walls
• Shoes
• Computer Components
• Jewelry
• Books
• Remote Controls
• Vet Bills – to remove any foreign object it may ingest

• Your Lab’s Life – if it chews on any electric components, hazardous materials, or chokes on anything else it may be able to get in its mouth

Crate Training Your Labrador Dog Continue part 2

Original source: Lab articles

Most people try to put the crate in the corner or out of eye sight due to its size or its ability to match the furniture. When crate training, the crate should be placed in the most centralize and highest traffic areas of the home. This will allow you to continue to interact with your Lab and not have it feel isolated or alone.

Preparing the Crate

Setting the crate up for your Lab is as important has the crate you choose. The pup should be as comfortable and has safe as possible while it is hanging out in its new den. Toys, treats, and bedding may be included but either needs to be checked for choking hazards. Since they are Labs and they are prone to chewing, toys and treats should be specifically for heavy chewers. Depending on your Labrador Retriever, the bedding may range from old towels to a $200 bed from an high end store. Please check all items for their “chew factor” before leaving your pup alone in a crate with them. We have learned a number of times that even those beds that look like they are tough, have no chance of survival when placed in a closed space with an aggressive chewer.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

The introduction of puppy and crate is the most crucial step on the training process. First perceptions are always the strongest with both humans and animals. Per the American Dog Trainers Network, the following steps should be taken during this introduction period:

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Feeding Your Lab Meals in the Crate

Each owner has a preference on feeding in a crate. For those that must leave their Lab pups in the crate for longer periods of time, this may be an option. However, most families choose not to feed in the crate because it can become messy, it is difficult to keep the Labrador Retriever on a feeding schedule, or the owner may be training the dog using the “Nothing in Life is Free” principle. Feeding meals in the crate is based upon personal preferences.

A Note About Crating Puppies

If you are crate training a young puppy, please remember that they have limited control over eliminating. The younger the pup, the more frequently it will need to go to the bathroom. The age of the puppy denotes the amount of time they are able to crated. Puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated as they will need to go to the bathroom frequently. No pup should ever be allowed to eliminate in their crate. This defeats one of the more predominate uses of crate training and confuses the Lab. For most, the age and crating duration is as follows:

• 9-10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
• 11-14 weeks: 1-3 hours
• 15-16 weeks: 3-4 hours
• 17+ weeks: 4+ hours

Accidents in the Crate

Accidents will happen and if this happens in the crate, the Lab should never be scolded. If a mess occurs, promptly bring the pup outside to finish eliminating and return to clean the mess. Everything in the crate should be cleaned as microscopic particles of urine or feces can be on anything. Any residue or odor left behind will leave a scent or marking for your pup to use next time it needs to eliminate. Therefore, all bedding and the crate floor should be washed with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle).

Crating Guidelines & Potential Problems

• Collars are to be removed as they can get caught on the crate and pose a choking hazard.
• Do not crate during extremely hot temperatures.
• Make sure your Lab eliminates before entering the crate and as soon as it is released from the crate.
• If your pup continues to eliminate in the crate, check that it does not have too much room – otherwise seek veterinarian assistance.
• Never use the crate as a form of punishment.
• Children should never play in or around the crate. This is a sanctuary for you dog and therefore it should be able to have this space to itself.
• Never release a barking Lab from the crate. If you do so, the pup will be conditioned to believe that barking gets the end result it wants – to be let out of the crate. The pup should not bark and remain calm for at least 5 minutes before opening the crate door. If it is a younger pup and it is barking because it needs to eliminate, promptly open the crate door and lead the pup out on a leash to eliminate. After done, return the Lab directly to the crate. this will reinforce that barking is not appropriate in the crate unless it is for elimination only. Sure, the barking can cause you to get less sleep or become annoying but it will get better with time if you are consistent.
• Do not use the crate if your Lab is vomiting or has diarrhea.
• Do not use the crate for extended periods of time. You chose to have a dog and must take responsibility for providing social interaction, nurturing, support, exercise, and love.
• Don’t abuse the crate!

The crate doesn’t work for all dogs. Some dogs will not tolerate it but most will come to love the crate and be lost without it. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for “senior” dogs. We have been very successful in crate training and need only remove our Labs’ collars and say “Kennel Up”, and they head straight for their crates. It is important that the crate not be abused. Every dog needs a certain amount of exercise and should be allowed the opportunity to socialize daily with its human family.

Original source: Lab articles