The best Labrador Retriever is a well trained dog. Unfortunately, Labs usually don’t enter a family already fully trained. One of the most frequent training complaints is the ability for a Lab to drag its owner down the block in less than 20 seconds. It is for that reason that Lab owners seek out methods of controlling their dogs while on walks or during training session. One such method is the use of the Prong collar.

What is a Prong Collar?
A Prong collar (also called pinch collar) is a series of chain links with open ends turned towards the dog’s neck so that, when the collar is tightened, it pinches the naturally loose skin around the dog’s neck. When properly adjusted and used, it startles the dog and gives a sharp correction, but it is very difficult if not impossible to actually puncture the skin. And while it looks painful, it’s actually less harmful to the dog than a slip or choke collar. Opponents argue that pain is never a good default way in which to train animals. Some dogs are nearly oblivious to leash corrections of any kind, but the prong collar might make such dogs pay more attention than milder collar types. The advantage of the prong collar over the choke collar is that the circumference is limited so that it is impossible to compress the animal’s throat. Another advantage is that any pressure on the dog’s neck is spread out over a larger area than with most buckle collars, and with all choke chains.

Study of Prong Collars in Germany
(Information about study taken from an Anne Marie Silverton Seminar)

• 100 dogs were in the study. 50 used choke and 50 used prong.
• The dogs were studied for their entire lives. As dogs died, autopsies were performed.
• Of the 50 which had chokes, 48 had injuries to the neck, trachea, or back. 2 of those were determined to be genetic. The other 46 were caused by trauma.
• Of the 50 which had prongs, 2 had injuries in the neck area, 1 was determined to be genetic. 1 was caused by trauma.

Type of Prong Collars

Swivel – prevents chain from getting twisted and owner must release dog by manually separating the links of the collar.

Quick Release – has a swivel to prevent chain from getting twisted and comes with a snap or special link to quickly release dog.

When should a Prong Collar be used?

A Prong collar should be used when milder training collars have not worked and your Lab is still not listening to commands. These other training collars include the flat collar, martingale collar, halter collar, or harness. Each of these training collars is less forceful and may be suitable for most owners and their Labs. For the most stubborn puller or for those Labs that have “selective hearing” when giving commands, the Prong collar can be very useful. Please use the mildest collar that gives you the results you want before trying a Prong collar.

Who should use a Prong Collar?

Any dog owner that has a stubborn Lab that need a more forceful training method. Only adults should use this type of training collar as there are some rules that a child may have difficultly following. Training must remain consistent and the alpha individual in the family should be the one to use this training method.

Please note: The pup should be at least 6 months in age before using a Prong collar for training due to development growth and age. This should not be used on young puppies.

Correct Use of a Prong Collar

Most people are misguided in the use of the Prong collar and how it should be worn. A majority of owners will secure the Prong collar loosely under the flat collar of the dog and believe this is the best fitting. Unfortunately, they are very wrong and can cause serious tracheal and neck problems for their Labs. Here are the facts:

• Prong collars are ordered by weight – Extra Heavy; Heavy; Light; etc. They all come in a standard length which is adjusted to fit the neck of the dog by removing or adding links to the collar.
• Prong collars are meant to be put on and taken off before and after daily training sessions. They should never be left on the Lab all the time. That is what the flat collar is meant for.
• A snug fit is mandatory! Enough links need to be removed so that the collar fits snug.
• Positioning of the Prong collar is crucial. The collar should sit right behind the ears and up under the jaw. Not down at the shoulders.
• Rings on the Prong collar should be positioned ideally for training. For most, the rings (that you attach your leash to) should be towards the top right of the Lab’s neck as to allow the trainer to be standing to the Lab’s right for training.
• Links should always remain under the dog’s chin for more effective training.
• Attach the leash to the dead-ring for normal dog training. The dead-ring is when the trainer attaches the leash to both the swivel ring and the stationary ring. This will allow the Prong collar to remain the same size when training and provide less force.
• Attach leash to the live-ring for more stubborn dogs. The live ring is the swivel ring alone and allows the Prong collar to tighten further on the Lab when training. Do not use the live-ring method of training unless you have first tried the dead-ring method.
• The Prong collar should be placed on the Lab 20 minutes before training and it should be removed 20 minutes after the training has been completed. This will allow the Lab to become accustomed to the collar and not directly link the correction during the training with the collar.

Animal Cruelty

The Prong collar itself is not a cruel device to use on any dog, so long as it is used properly during training. As with anything, there are opportunities for any training method to be used in a cruel and inhumane fashion. Prong collars should never be used for punishment after the Lab has done something wrong. The collar should only be worn when the owner is actively training the Lab. If left on, the collar can hurt the Lab if it were to become tangled or caught on something. Prong collars are used solely for correction during training and should not be used in any other way. If you suspect someone of purposefully using the Prong collar to hurt their dog, please contact your local officials immediately.

Just because an owner chooses to use a Prong collar does not mean he or she has a bad dog. Both of our lovable Labs use the collar during their daily walks, as they tend to pull hard, and it is used during our more rigorous training sessions. When used properly, the Prong collar can make even the most energetic and stubborn Lab become well mannered and easy to handle.

If you are unsure as to what training collar may be best suited for your pup, please contact a local Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT), whic

Original source: Lab articles

Most people try to put the crate in the corner or out of eye sight due to its size or its ability to match the furniture. When crate training, the crate should be placed in the most centralize and highest traffic areas of the home. This will allow you to continue to interact with your Lab and not have it feel isolated or alone.

Preparing the Crate

Setting the crate up for your Lab is as important has the crate you choose. The pup should be as comfortable and has safe as possible while it is hanging out in its new den. Toys, treats, and bedding may be included but either needs to be checked for choking hazards. Since they are Labs and they are prone to chewing, toys and treats should be specifically for heavy chewers. Depending on your Labrador Retriever, the bedding may range from old towels to a $200 bed from an high end store. Please check all items for their “chew factor” before leaving your pup alone in a crate with them. We have learned a number of times that even those beds that look like they are tough, have no chance of survival when placed in a closed space with an aggressive chewer.

Introducing the Crate to Your Puppy

The introduction of puppy and crate is the most crucial step on the training process. First perceptions are always the strongest with both humans and animals. Per the American Dog Trainers Network, the following steps should be taken during this introduction period:

1. Occasionally throughout the day, drop small pieces of kibble or dog biscuits in the crate. While investigating his new crate, the pup will discover edible treasures, thereby reinforcing his positive associations with the crate. You may also feed him in the crate to create the same effect. If the dog hesitates, it often works to feed him in front of the crate, then right inside the doorway and then, finally, in the back of the crate.
2. In the beginning, praise and pet your pup when he enters. Do not try to push, pull or force the puppy into the crate. At this early stage of introduction only inducive methods are suggested. Overnight exception: You may need to place your pup in his crate and shut the door upon retiring. (In most cases, the crate should be placed next to your bed overnight. If this is not possible, the crate can be placed in the kitchen, bathroom or living room.)
3. You may also play this enjoyable and educational game with your pup or dog: without alerting your puppy, drop a small dog biscuit into the crate. Then call your puppy and say to him, “Where’s the biscuit? It’s in your room.” Using only a friendly, encouraging voice, direct your pup toward his crate. When the puppy discovers the treat, give enthusiastic praise. The biscuit will automatically serve as a primary reward. Your pup should be free to leave its crate at all times during this game. Later on, your puppy’s toy or ball can be substituted for the treat.
4. It is advisable first to crate your pup for short periods of time while you are home with him. In fact, crate training is best accomplished while you are in the room with your dog. Getting him used to your absence from the room in which he is crated is a good first step. This prevents an association being made with the crate and your leaving him/her alone.

Feeding Your Lab Meals in the Crate

Each owner has a preference on feeding in a crate. For those that must leave their Lab pups in the crate for longer periods of time, this may be an option. However, most families choose not to feed in the crate because it can become messy, it is difficult to keep the Labrador Retriever on a feeding schedule, or the owner may be training the dog using the “Nothing in Life is Free” principle. Feeding meals in the crate is based upon personal preferences.

A Note About Crating Puppies

If you are crate training a young puppy, please remember that they have limited control over eliminating. The younger the pup, the more frequently it will need to go to the bathroom. The age of the puppy denotes the amount of time they are able to crated. Puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated as they will need to go to the bathroom frequently. No pup should ever be allowed to eliminate in their crate. This defeats one of the more predominate uses of crate training and confuses the Lab. For most, the age and crating duration is as follows:

• 9-10 weeks: 30-60 minutes
• 11-14 weeks: 1-3 hours
• 15-16 weeks: 3-4 hours
• 17+ weeks: 4+ hours

Accidents in the Crate

Accidents will happen and if this happens in the crate, the Lab should never be scolded. If a mess occurs, promptly bring the pup outside to finish eliminating and return to clean the mess. Everything in the crate should be cleaned as microscopic particles of urine or feces can be on anything. Any residue or odor left behind will leave a scent or marking for your pup to use next time it needs to eliminate. Therefore, all bedding and the crate floor should be washed with a pet odor neutralizer (such as Nature’s Miracle).

Crating Guidelines & Potential Problems

• Collars are to be removed as they can get caught on the crate and pose a choking hazard.
• Do not crate during extremely hot temperatures.
• Make sure your Lab eliminates before entering the crate and as soon as it is released from the crate.
• If your pup continues to eliminate in the crate, check that it does not have too much room – otherwise seek veterinarian assistance.
• Never use the crate as a form of punishment.
• Children should never play in or around the crate. This is a sanctuary for you dog and therefore it should be able to have this space to itself.
• Never release a barking Lab from the crate. If you do so, the pup will be conditioned to believe that barking gets the end result it wants – to be let out of the crate. The pup should not bark and remain calm for at least 5 minutes before opening the crate door. If it is a younger pup and it is barking because it needs to eliminate, promptly open the crate door and lead the pup out on a leash to eliminate. After done, return the Lab directly to the crate. this will reinforce that barking is not appropriate in the crate unless it is for elimination only. Sure, the barking can cause you to get less sleep or become annoying but it will get better with time if you are consistent.
• Do not use the crate if your Lab is vomiting or has diarrhea.
• Do not use the crate for extended periods of time. You chose to have a dog and must take responsibility for providing social interaction, nurturing, support, exercise, and love.
• Don’t abuse the crate!

The crate doesn’t work for all dogs. Some dogs will not tolerate it but most will come to love the crate and be lost without it. Success rates are much higher for puppies, than for “senior” dogs. We have been very successful in crate training and need only remove our Labs’ collars and say “Kennel Up”, and they head straight for their crates. It is important that the crate not be abused. Every dog needs a certain amount of exercise and should be allowed the opportunity to socialize daily with its human family.

Original source: Lab articles

Bringing your Lab puppy home is one of the most exciting moments. There is a new bundle of furry joy that enters your family and settles in for a long and nurturing bond between dog and human. However, this joy can quickly disperse as the role of housebreaking comes along and you start pulling your hair out. Okay, so you may not pull your hair out but housebreaking can be quite frustrating for a number of people.

First, the new Lab owner must realize that not all dogs are the same and not all Labrador Retrievers are the same. Once pup may be easily trained by the time it is 12 weeks old, while another pup could be 5 months old before being fully housebroken. It does not matter if your new puppy is an English (Show) Lab or an American (Field) Lab or even if you have two Labs from the same bloodline or litter. Each puppy is different and must be trained according to what fits for that particular pup.

What is housebreaking?

Housebreaking is the act of getting your pup to go to the bathroom where you want it to go. Usually this is outside of the home but some owners of smaller breed dogs choose to litter train their pups instead. For Labrador Retrievers, litter training is not an option so we must assume that the Lab will be trained to pee and poop outside of the home.

A pup is not considered housebroken the first time it does its business outside. The pup must not have an accident within the house for 12 consecutive weeks. This means that if the pup goes for 11 weeks before it has an accident in the house, it is back to beginning and the 12-week countdown must start all over again.

Importance of Schedules

Schedules are one of the most important aspects of housebreaking your pup. Whether the pup is 8-weeks old and coming into its first home or 5-years old and finding its new forever home, Labrador Retrievers do very well on schedules. The first thing any new or expecting family should do is create a bathroom schedule for their new dog.

Puppies around 8-16 weeks old will need to go to the bathroom every 2 hours. Therefore, you should schedule bathroom breaks every couple of hours, even if your pup does not show signs of having to go to the bathroom. If you keep to a 2-hour schedule, the pup will catch on quickly and start to begin to hold from going to the bathroom indoors until that scheduled potty break. As the pup gets older, this 2-hour schedule can be extended an hour at a time, until the pup can finally wait up to 8 hours or more. Please note that this is a gradual process and will take several weeks to months before being able to wait that long as a puppy’s bladder is underdeveloped when young and cannot physically wait that long without having the urge.

Older Labs that come into a new home will do very well with a schedule. This lets the dog know what to expect from the family and makes the dog feel more secure. Anticipation and nervousness is part of being introduced to a new family and a schedule makes them feel more secure in their surroundings and their place within the family. You will need to start off slow with the pup and allow for gradual changes as well. However, an older dog will most likely handle incremental time changes better.

Housebreaking Your Labrador Retriever Continue

Original source: Lab Articles

So now that you know what housebreaking is and the importance of scheduling, how do you get the pup to go outside? It is a simple process of awarding the pup for good behavior.

Most Lab owners follow a very simple routine when they take their pup outside: take the pup out on a leash directly to the spot you want it to eliminate, use a command to tell the pup to do its business such as Go Potty, do not play with the pup while outside for bathroom time, as the pup goes potty repeat the command over (this helps train the pup to go on command), treat and praise when the pup goes potty, do not return the pup to the house until 10 minutes have passed even if it has already eliminated (it may go potty again), and praise the pup when it comes back into the house.

Beyond the 2-hour schedule, pups will need to go to the bathroom:

• When they wake up in the morning or after a nap
• Before they go to sleep
• After they play
• Before and after they go on a car ride
• When they get overly excited

If you are crate training your Labrador Retriever, you will want to make sure to keep the crate small enough for the pup to only be able to turn and sleep in. Extra room in the crate allows the pup an area to eliminate as they will not go to the bathroom where they sleep. Take the pup out to go potty before you crate your pup and after you let it out of the crate. If the pup cries while in the crate and you believe it needs to go to the bathroom, open the door, put the leash on it immediately, and take it outside right away. Do not praise or play with your pup when taking it out of the crate or it will link crying and barking to getting released from the crate and this will make it more difficult to crate train. When the pup is done eliminating outside, bring it right back to the crate. This teaches the pup that crying or barking will not get any play time, love, praise, or cuddling and will just result in allowing it to go outside to do its business.

Housebreaking is not always an easy task but it doesn’t have to result in frustration and hair loss. With Labrador Retrievers, owners need to remain consistent and persistent in their training. Most owners become frustrated because they try something for a week or two and when it doesn’t work, they either give up or try something new. Unfortunately, this ends up confusing the Lab and the pup will be deemed un-trainable. When training fails, it is usually that the owner does not remain consistent with the training or gives up all together. This leads to an 80-pound dog that rules the roost and a very important bond between owner and Lab that is lost.

Those owners, such as me, that continue to remain persistent and consistent in training, can tell you that it is well worth the energy. My 2-year old Lab, Dakota, was housebroken by the time she was 12-weeks old. However, Cheyenne, my 1-year old full-blood sister to Dakota, was not fully housebroken until almost 6-months old. Why the difference? Although they both share the same genetic make up, they are two separate Labs with two distinct, and opposite, personalities. The point is that each Labrador Retriever is distinctly different however, as long as you remain consistent and persistent in their training, even those, like Cheyenne, who are not as easily trainable as other Labs can be training. Your Lab would never give up on you so never give up on your Lab!

Original source: Labrador Articles

With the dog days of summer here it’s important to help keep our Labs cool and protected. We have compiled a list of some things every Labrador Retriever owner needs to keep in mind and some helpful ideas to keep your dogs cool.

On hot days, shade is of the upmost importance. If your Lab will be outside for even a short period of time, make sure it has a cool and shady place to rest and lots of water in a spill-proof water bowl. Please keep in mind that as the day progresses, the these areas may lose their shade and become hot and sunny.

Keep your Labs well-groomed in summer. Brush your pup daily to make sure all lose fur and heavy undercoats have been removed. This will help the Lab stay cool and will reduce the amount of heat trapped in the layers of fur.

A child’s plastic wading pool is one of the best ideas for Labs. Being water dogs, they will automatically be drawn to the cool water and even if they only let their paws get wet, it will help the Lab cool down greatly. Some dogs have even been known to lay in the pool and bathe in the cool water. Since the dogs will tend to drink their pool water, please make sure you change the water at least once a day, if not more frequently.

Dog walks should take place in the early morning hours or later in the evening, when the sun has started to set. The surface temperature of sidewalks and streets can burn your Lab’s paws in a very short time of walking. They may not give you any signs to their discomfort but know that it is not comfortable for them to walk on these scolding surfaces. If you cannot place your hand on the surface for a period of time without it being too hot for you, it is most likely too hot for your Lab.

If your Lab is going to be out in the sun for a longer period of time, use a sunscreen made especially for dogs! This is most needed for Dudley Labs as their noses are more sensitive and their fur is lighter. If your lab has a light coat or light nose, apply the sunscreen to its nose and ears about 30 minutes before going out. You will want to stick with a dog sunscreen as it can withstand a Lab licking its nose.

For those families that live in the warmer climates, have a Lab that isn’t used to heat, or have an unseasonably hot day, please take extra precautions. If have air conditioning and your Lab does not need to be outside, then please keep it inside when it is hot. Heat stroke is a real danger to dogs as they can easily become dehydrated and overheated.

Signs of Heatstroke

• Rapid, heavy panting
• Staring
• Warm, dry skin
• Excessive salivating
• Inability to stand, collapse
• Vomiting

If you think your Lab is suffering with heatstroke, here is what you can do. First, have someone call the vet or the emergency vet, while you try to cool your Lab. You can cool your Lab, by placing cool towels on its body. The towels must be cool, but not ice cold. Drastic temperature changes are not good for your Lab either. Remember to keep wetting the towels because they will quickly warm to your Lab’s body temperature. If wet towels are not available, put cool water on the back of your Lab’s neck and on its belly. While cooling your Lab, offer it fresh water as well.

The main thing to remember in the summer is to take cues from your Lab. If you keep a close eye on your Lab during those hot, humid months you and your Lab will enjoy a great summer. Just remember that a well-informed Labrador Retriever owner makes for a happy and healthy Lab.

Like their human owners, dogs and cats sometimes wake up with “sleepers” in their eyes — a crusty discharge that results from the eye’s natural self-cleaning efforts. All pets will occasionally have some discharge, although bulgy-eyed breeds such as pugs, Pekingese, and Persian cats are much more prone to it than others.

“If you can wipe away the sleepers in the morning with a damp tissue and they don’t accumulate to any extent during the day, then you generally don’t have to worry about it,” says Nancy Willerton, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in Denver. “But when the discharge continues throughout the day, your pet may have an infection.”

Eye infections are fairly common, Dr. Willerton adds. They can crop up on their own or when something lodges in the eye. They can also occur when the surface of the eye, called the cornea, gets scratched. A telltale sign of infection is the appearance of the discharge: It will often be thick, yellow, gray, or green. It may form a crust on the eyelids as well.

Pets with viral infections such as feline respiratory disease in cats and canine adenovirus in dogs will often develop runny eyes. “It may start out as a watery discharge but then become thicker as the infection progresses,” says Terri McGinnis, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in the San Francisco area and author of The Well Cat Book and The Well Dog Book.

“Dogs and cats are prone to seasonal allergies, and the only sign may be a sticky eye discharge,” adds Craig N. Carter, D.V.M., Ph.D., head of epidemiology at Texas Veterinary Medical Diagnostic Laboratory at Texas A&M University in College Station. Unlike bacterial or viral infections, allergies usually result in a clear discharge, he adds. Your pet may be scratching himself and have bloodshot eyes as well.

A problem in older pets is that the eyes naturally become drier. This makes it easy for the outer portion of the eye to get irritated and inflamed, which can result in a sticky, yellow discharge on the surface of the eyeball.

Finally, some pets have a slight genetic defect called entropion, in which the eyelid turns inward and causes the lashes to brush against the surface of the eye. In cats and some breeds of dogs, like golden and Labrador retrievers, entropion often affects the lower eyelid. In dogs with big heads and loose facial skin, such as Saint Bernards, shar-peis, and Chow Chows, both lids can be affected. Over time entropion can cause irritation and infection, resulting in a discharge.

See Your Vet If…

• Your pet has an eye infection
  
• You have a bulgy-eyed breed like a Persian cat or Pekingese dog, or a giant breed of dog like a mastiff
  
• Your pet is scratching a lot and has bloodshot eyes
  
• Your pet won’t quit scratching or pawing his eyes
  
• His eyes have turned blue, gray, or cloudy, or he is having trouble getting around
  
• His eyes are frequently bloodshot or dry
  
• There has been a watery or discolored discharge from the eyes for 48 hours or more
  
• Your pet’s eyes are bulging
  
• The eyelids are swollen or unable to close
  
• There is a growth on the eye or eyelid
  
• One or both pupils are dilated, or they don’t respond to light
  
• Your pet seems very sensitive to light
  
• The eyes are droopy or sunken
  
• The third eyelids are covering the lower parts of the eyes
  
• His eyes are continually moving back and forth
  
• Blood or tiny blood vessels are visible in the center (not the whites) of his eyes
  
• His eyelid appears to be turned inward or outward

Original source ot this article: Labrador Retriever

By Shannon K. Steffen

About the Disease

Osteochondritis dessicans (OCD) is a hereditary disease that occurs early in the development of most large and giant breed dogs. The condition is noted by cracks and flaps in the articular cartilage. The symptoms of OCD can include, but are not limited to:

* Girl and her Black LabInflammation
* Joint instability
* Pain
* Lameness
* Degenerative joint disease
* Barely noticeable to severe limp
* Unable to bear weight on the leg
* Lameness worsens after periods of exercise
* Improves after rest
* Shortened forelimb stride (front shoulder)
* Crepitus (grating noise of bones rubbing against each other)
* Decreased range of motion

Symptoms usually develop between 4 to 10 months of age and may develop in several joints.

Statistics

More than 10% of dogs develop OCD in one of more joints. It is most seen in large and giant breeds such as:

* Great Dane
* Labrador Retriever
* Newfoundland
* Rottweiler
* Bernese Mountain Dog
* English Setter
* Old English Sheepdog
* Golden Retriever
* German Shepherd

OCD of the shoulder occurs twice as often in male dogs than in female dogs. OCD of the hock occurs more often in female dogs.

Causes

Genes may play an important part in the cause of OCD but the jury is still out on this. Nutrition is the most widely found risk factor as a diet high in calcium increases the risk of OCD. Rapid weight gain due to high-calorie diets causes unnecessary weight on the Lab’s joints and may also contribute to the disease.

As Lab owners, we are all told not to have our Lab puppy run or walk on hard surfaces for long periods of time as this may cause trauma or injury to the puppy’s joints. Excessive workload, exercise, and rough play can cause the cartilage to separate from the bone and add further lesions on the cartilage. Period of rapid growth can also play a huge part in the occurrence of this disease. Lastly, restricted blood flow to the cartilage from an separate underlying disease may cause OCD as a secondary culprit.

Diagnosis

There are a number of ways a veterinarian can tell if your Lab has OCD. Some methods include:

* History
* Physical examination
* X-rays (radiographs)
* Positive contrast arthroscopy
* Crepitus (crackling noise of bones rubbing against each other)
* Noticeable Pain
* Restricted mobility or extension
* Swelling

These methods help the vet correctly diagnose the OCD and rule out several other conditions such as cartilage fractures, elbow dysplasia, panosteitis.

Treatment

The goal of treatment is to alleviate pain, increase mobility, and prevent further damage to your Lab’s leg. Once the disease is confirmed, the following factors will be taken into account when considering treatment options:

* Age
* Health
* Cost
* Severity of symptoms

Conservative treatment is less expensive and requires less rigorous owner compliance than surgery. This treatment includes rest, confinement for 4 to 8 weeks, and weight control and is recommended when the symptoms are mild and the x-rays do not show lesions. During this time, the Lab may be placed on nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), such as Carprofen (Rimadyl), to reduce the pain and inflammation.Yellow Lab Puppy

A low fat, protein, and calcium content diet will be required. In addition, the use of glucosamine/chondroitin products may be suggested. These supplements help build new cartilage, and block sulfates that break it down.

For the more severe cases, where large lesions are identified or conservative methods do not work, surgery may be and option. There is a high success rate for surgery and most Labs will recover without any further problems. Of course, that does not take into account those Labs that are prone to chew through bandages, open stitches, etc.

Prevention

There is no proven method to preventing a Labrador Retriever from getting osteochondritis dessicans. The only prevention consists of carefully selective breeding, reducing strenuous activity while growing, keeping the Lab on softer surfaces when walking or playing, and maintaining a good balanced diet and weight. Labrador Retriever puppies are pure energy wrapped in fur and keeping them well exercised while trying to prevent OCD is difficult. However, with a closely watchful eye and some creativeness, prevention may be possible.

Original source of this article: Labrador Articles

By Shannon K. Steffen

Finding out that your Labrador Retriever or large breed pup has Hip Dysplasia is one of the most devastating diagnoses that any dog owner hears. We are conditioned to think this is one of the worst large breed dog problems and that there is no hope for the pup after such a condition has been confirmed. Unfortunately, Canine Hip Dysplasia is not curable and can be quite painful if the Lab is not diagnosed early and necessary precautions made to increase the quality of life for the pup. That is why it is important to become knowledgeable in how to lessen the chance for such a diagnosis, how to know when your pup needs to be seen by a veterinarian, and what treatment options are available.

What is Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)?

Hip Dysplasia? simply means an abnormal formation of the hip joint. The head of the femur is supposed to match the socket of the joint. Those Labs that lack a snug fit between the ball and socket of the hip joint are those diagnosed with varying degrees of Hip Dysplasia. Some pups may only have a slight change, while others can have complete dislocation. Hence, no two dogs will be affected by the disorder exactly the same.

The Origin of Hip Dysplasia

Most studies have shown that the number one contributing factor to CHD is genetics. If the parents are carrying the genetic material for CHD, so will the offspring. Even if both parents are OFA Excellent, the opportunity for CHD is still available but less likely to occur.

There is also evidence to conclude that a number of environmental conditions can affect the expression of CHD and include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Nutrition Proper nutrition is crucial during the growth phase of a pup. This does not mean that food or calories should be restricted. Ideally, a high-quality meat-based diet is essential for growing pups and by using a large or giant breed puppy food will assist you in ensuring your growing Lab pup receives all the nutrients its needs while maintaining a proper caloric intake. An overweight puppy or dog adds much unnecessary stress on the hips and joints.
• Physical Activity Large and giant breed pups are in the growth phase of development from birth to 1 year of age. The more strenuous exercise it receives during this period, the greater chance of it developing Hip Dysplasia or arthritis later in life. Climbing stairs, jumping into and out of pick-up trucks, running with other normal dogs, all subject the growing hip structures to unwarranted stress and trauma and increase the future discomfort for the Lab.
• Bedding Although there is no evidence that bedding can increase the level of CHD in a pup, there is still the possibility. Smooth concrete, wood, or newspaper surfaces can become very slippery for a Lab and not allow them to get their footing. The lack of stability of the surface they are walking on can cause their legs to slide from underneath them and put further stress on the hips and joints.

Signs of Hip Dysplasia

Possible signs of CHD in young pups and older dogs can include the following:

• Runs with both back legs nearly together (rabbit run)
• Reluctant to rise after exercising
• Sits back unsteady
• Difficulty climbing stairs or inclines
• Look slightly undeveloped in the rear quarters
• Legs not parallel when standing straight
• Boniness to the pelvic area from lack of good muscle development
• Inability to extend the leg backward very far
• Decreased range of motion or stiffness
• Rock forward to support more weight on the front legs
• Tip-toeing lightly on rear legs
• Reluctant to jump or stand up on hind legs
• Sits rather than stand
• Decrease in willingness to exercise
• Popping or snapping sounds when walking
• Soreness after lying down
• Sensitivity to touch of the hindquarters
• Hind leg lameness
• Swaying or staggering
• Abnormal gait

It is very important to note that a Labrador Retriever may appear normal and yet have Hip Dysplasia. Some dogs with this disorder will escape pain or simply accept it as a fact of life and don’t complain until degenerative joint disease sets in.

Detecting Hip Dysplasia

Labs with obvious signs of CHD (hip soreness, difficulty arising or climbing inclines, muscle atrophy over the rump, limping) are not a challenge to confirm as such. This does not mean that a veterinarian can just look at a dog and determine them to have Hip Dysplasia. At a minimum, the Lab needs to have a pelvic x-ray taken under anesthesia. You must have the x-ray to know if the dog is normal or suffering from a separate disorder.

The reason anesthesia is necessary is that the veterinarian can only then palpate and manipulate the hips to actually feel the degree of looseness. Also, the tension of the muscles in the rump is best assessed under the anesthesia.

Treatment

Surgery is a viable option for dogs with severe CHD but it is not for every dog. Drug therapies are helpful to deal with pain. Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs such as aspirin, naproxen, Adequan, and Cosequin have been proven effective in many cases. These anti-inflammatory drugs, accompanied with such treatments as weight loss and moderate exercise, will help to alleviate the pain and inflammation around the jip joint. This increases the quality of life for the Labrador Retriever pup and allows them to love normal? with some small restrictions. Some owners will even review acupuncture as an additional alternative prior to investing, emotionally and financially, to surgery.

The types of surgery available for CHD include:

1. Triple pelvic osteotomy a procedure to stabilize the joint and prevent degenerative changes that accompany weight-bearing stress on abnormal hips;
2. Femoral head excision used to prevent bone-on-bone friction; or
3. Total hip replacement.

The decision on the type of surgery preformed is based on the age of the Lab, the progress of the disease, and the general health of the dog.

Prevention of Hip Dysplasia

There are few things you can do in the way of prevention, but you should consider the following:

• When selecting a puppy, find out the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) hip score for the sire and dam. You should be looking to purchase offspring from parents whose hips have been evaluated and scored good or excellent. The PennHIP program for evaluating canine hips can provide excellent objective information about hip joints in dogs as young as four months of age.
• Picking up the problem as early as possible affords your pup the best chance of finding the right option, whether medical or surgical, to minimize the arthritic changes that will develop secondary to the Hip Dysplasia.

It is very sad indeed for any Lab owner to see their special pup affected by the discomfort and mobility problems associated with CHD. Fortunately, armed with knowledge and forethought, highly selective breeding is your best defense against CHD.

Original source of this artilce: Labrador Artilces

By Shannon K. Steffen

Do you leave your home and return only to find that your normally well behaved Lab has dug a hole straight through your couch or chewed the cushions off each of your new dining room chairs? If so, then welcome to the world of canine separation anxiety!

Labrador Retrievers are rated as one of the most common breeds for separation anxiety as they are companionship dogs and do not like being left alone for very long. Separation Anxiety in dogs is a neurological distress response to the separation of a person to whom the dog is attached, a high degree of uncertainty of an outcome, or the probability of punishment. Of course, brain chemistry plays a huge role in the development and progression of this disorder but we are going to toss our chemistry books aside and get down to the basics of how you can help your pup with this disorder.

Most articles and veterinarian findings state that separation anxiety is found primarily in younger or older dogs. The middle-aged pup is often left out of the equation but shouldn’t be as there are a number of signs and triggers that even those Labs in this age groups can exhibit.

Signs

The signs of canine separation anxiety include, but are not limited to:

• Distress Vocalization – howling, barking, and whining
• Inappropriate Elimination – urination, defecation
• Destructive Behavior – chewing, digging, scratching walls/doors
• Anorexia
• Depression or Inactivity
• Psychosomatic consequences – excessive licking of hair coat, pacing, circling
• Hyperattachment – excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner
• Hypersalivation
• Escape Behavior – breaking through windows and doors

Triggers

A trigger is something that happens in the life of the Labrador Retriever, which causes the onset of separation anxiety. Although each Lab is different and has different triggers due to personality traits, routines, or living conditions, most triggers include:

• Marriage
• New House
• New Baby
• Changes in Schedule
• Owner going back to work
• Children going back to school
• Improper Nutrition
• Allergies
• Loss of a family member

Diagnosis

As each Lab is different, it is often difficult to reach a conclusive diagnosis of separation anxiety. For this reason, a thorough history and physical exam are needed to definitively diagnose separation anxiety and rule out other medical behavioral differential diagnoses. Once your veterinarian has confirmed that your Labrador Retriever does indeed have canine separation anxiety, there are a few treatment options available to help your pup.

Treatment

The treatment of separation anxiety in dogs may involve both medical and behavioral intervention. Treatment is necessary as dogs with separation are truly suffering and can do real harm to themselves. With that said, there are three types of treatment available: medical, natural, and training.

Medical Treatment

Depending on the extent of the Labrador Retriever’s separation anxiety, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment. Usually medical treatment is reserved for those dogs with a more severe case of separation anxiety and may include the use of Clomicalm. This drug decreases the level of fear and anxiety, while increasing the receptivity to behavioral modification.

Valium is also used by some veterinarians, but most do not like it. There are better choices than Valium with longer lasting effects that will allow the dog to continue living a more normal life. As with any drugs, please ask your vet about the side effects prior to giving medication to your pup.

Natural Treatment

Although medical treatment may be effective, there are many side effects to be concerned about; therefore many owners chose a more natural approach to treatment. Herbal remedies such as Tranquility Blend by Animals’ Apawthecary can be purchased at many natural pet food stores. This product claims to calm dogs, cats, and other animals during acute episodes of anxiety without diminishing alertness.

Another natural treatment that is designed specifically for canine separation anxiety is called Comfort Zone Canine Behavior Modification Plug-in by Farnam Pet Products. It contains a jar of Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP) and electric diffuser that plugs into the wall outlet. This product claims to completely stop stress-related behavior as it releases a pheromone possessed by lactating female dogs.

Training Treatment

Also known as behavioral modification, the training treatment can allow dogs to feel more in control and independent while allowing them to have goals to attain. This not only allows for mental stimulation but also desensitizing and counter-conditioning. Many Labs suffering with separation anxiety can be trained and cured, but it takes persistence and consistence on behalf of the dog owner. Forms of training may include:

1. Crate Training – crating the dog and covering the crate with a sheet in a secure area of the house to alleviate stress.
2. Short Leaves – leave the house in short intervals and increase the length of time, slowly, as needed to help the dog become accustomed to being left alone for periods of time. Leave the television or music playing as if you are home to distract the pup.
3. Obedience Training – give the pup a job to do in a group setting to build confidence and security while being socialized.

The success of each training technique depends on each Labrador Retriever. The owner needs to remain consistent with the training and provide rewards for the pup as well. Give your Lab something special reserved for those times when you leave, such as a Kong stuffed with some goodies. This will downplay your departure and give the pup something else to concentrate on. If done correctly, training will not only be a treatment for separation anxiety but also a prevention for future anxiety attacks.

Fallout

Unfortunately, many Lab owners do not understand the importance of proper diagnosis and treatment for canine separation anxiety. If not taken seriously and a solution found, possible fallout may occur, such as:

• Owner being evicted from the residence due to noise disturbance
• Time and money to make repairs to the home
• Emotional stress on leaving the dog alone
• Possible euthanasia or abandonment of the pup

The purpose of this article is to help ensure that fall out does not occur. Lab owners must remember that scolding your Labrador Retriever only makes the problem worse. It is not the pup’s fault that it has separation anxiety. Your pup needs a patient, loving and willing caregiver to take the necessary steps to help it achieve a full recovery and not be destroyed or abandoned for something that is out of its control. It may be a long process for some dogs, but it will be well worth the effort to help your Labrador Retriever become healthy and happy.

Original source: Labrador Articles

Feeding for health and life

By Shannon K. Steffen

So you have this new beautiful Labrador Retriever puppy or full grown rescue Lab and you have no clue what to feed it. Does that sound familiar? It should. There are are currently over a hundred dog foods in the U.S. market alone; deciding which one to choose can make any new dog owner’s head spin. You want what’s best for your pup but you don’t want to break your bank account while trying to give Fido to the best.

Dog Breeds and Dog Food

There is a direct link between the dog breed you have and the dog food it needs. Smaller breeds tend to live a longer life given that they are not prone to many of the health problems larger breed dogs face such as hip dysplasia, OCD, poor eye sight, and so on. The large breed dogs, such as Labrador Retrievers, need vital nutrients and minerals during all stages of their lives, but especially during the newborn to 18-month old growth stage.

To ensure that breeds such as Labrador’s get what they need from the food they eat, a number of companies have come out with Large Breed and Puppy Large Breed dog foods. These foods may contain higher levels of Glucosamine (for healthy bones & joints), lower calories (to maintain weight), higher protein (for strong muscles and ligaments), and additional vitamins and minerals to sustain a healthy immune system.

Puppies vs. Older Dogs

It goes without saying that puppies and older dogs are much different and therefore have different needs. Puppies are in constant growth and need foods with high quality proteins listed as the first ingredient of the dog food you are going to use. Chicken meal and Lamb meal are two top choices for most Lab owners as the word “meal” just means that it is a dry form of the product. They will also need more calories then older dogs but do keep in mind that the more you feed, the more waste. So, you will want to choose a food that does not require high quantities but more quality nutrients per serving.

Older dogs have varying requirements. Some Labs will become overweight with age due to poor feeding or lack of exercise. for this reason, it is best to speak with your rescue group volunteer about the specifics of that particular dog’s dietary needs prior to welcoming it home.

Allergies

Over the course of the years we have had Labrador Retrievers and spoken with other Lab owners, it has become more obvious that a number of Labradors have sensitive allergies to certain types of food. It is not uncommon for a Lab owner to go through many foods before finally finding a food that both meets the pup’s dietary needs as well as provides relief from the dog’s allergies. It’s best to avoid foods that contain chicken by-products as this is usually a main culprit of Labrador Retriever food allergies. Most lower quality food will list chicken or other animal by-products as one of their top 10 ingredients. If this is the case, leave the bag on the shelf and keeping moving.

Original source: Labrador dog articles